Home improvement and
hardware stores carry such a large variety of caulks and adhesives, it can
often get confusing. Learn what to use for all your projects, repairs and
fillers.

For example, look near the paint
aisle and you'll find the caulk section. Head over to tile and flooring,
roofing and masonry, and there will be a nice selection there as well. The
location of glue and other adhesives also range widely, but often occupy a
smaller section near the paint, with some construction adhesives found next to
the caulk in a completely different aisle.
But there is a method to the
madness, and it just takes a little savvy to make sense of it all.
Seal the Deal With Caulk
We all want a “tight” house with
no drafts or leaks so we save money on energy bills and keep out moisture to
avoid water damage and mold. We also want our water-laden areas — the kitchen
and bathroom — to keep water where it belongs.
For bathrooms you'll need caulk
labeled for tub and tile. These are formulated for high-moisture areas and
resist mold and mildew. Within this type of caulk are several variations,
included sanded ceramic-tile caulk, which is available in colors to match the
color of your grout so you're not limited to bright white or clear caulk.
Caulk for use around doors,
windows and molding will be clearly marked. Generally, the same caulk can be
used for all of these applications. Make sure that the product you get is
labeled as paintable because paint will not adhere properly to certain types of
caulk — it will bead up like oil trying to mix with water. For outdoor
applications, select caulk rated for exterior use. Most often these will be
either silicone-based or an acrylic blend with silicone added. Image 1 shows
three varieties of caulk including: tub and tile; paintable acrylic blend
window, door and molding; and silicone window, door and molding.
Although it can be tempting,
caulk shouldn't be used as a filler. For gaps larger than 1/4 inch, you'll need
to use a spray foam or backer rod to fill larger gaps, and then follow up with
caulk. Backer rod is usually found with weather stripping.
Most caulk comes in a tube that
requires a caulk gun, which consists of a “trigger” that drives a plunger
pushing the caulk through the tube toward the tip. Caulk guns are a must-have
and range from just a few dollars to $12 or more. They all perform the same
function, so there's no point in buying the most-expensive caulk gun unless
you're a pro. Your best bet is a midrange gun at about $6. Some of the cheaper
ones — less than $3 — can stick and have to be taken apart and reassembled
frequently, which is not something you want to do in the middle of a job.
Applying Caulk
After you've applied a bead of
caulk, simply use your finger followed by a damp paper towel to smooth it out.
If that's a bit messy for your liking, many spreading tools are available.
Caps and Applicators
Some tubes of caulk will come
with a cap. If not, a great trick for capping an open tube of caulk is screwing
on a wire connector onto the tip. Connectors are threaded so they will grab
onto the tip and stay in place.
Caulk manufacturers also make
smaller tubes of caulk that don't require a caulk gun. They're a lot like a
tube of toothpaste. Many of these come with tips that can be screwed on and
removed, which makes cleaning much easier.
Getting a Grip With Adhesives and
Glue
The white glue we used in school
always comes to mind when we think of the sticky stuff, but other than making
construction-paper art, it's not very practical in DIY situations.
Wood Glue
Not all wood glues are the same.
Titebond has three main varieties and they are pretty easy to identify by their
label. Plain Titebond is the typical wood glue you'd want to use for most
woodworking and carpentry jobs. Titebond II can be as well, but it also offers
waterproof/exterior uses. Titebond III, which some woodworkers simply use as a
default glue, has good exterior capabilities and has a longer “open” time than
the other Titebond glues. Open time refers to how long before a glue starts
setting. This is important if you're working on project that requires a lot of
setup or assembly prior to being clamped.
When using wood glue, make sure
to apply a solid bead and spread it evenly using an acid brush. Apply enough so
that the mating surfaces are thoroughly covered.
Heavy-Duty Adhesives
Construction adhesives, such as
Loctite and Liquid Nails brands are best for large projects like laminating
beams. They’re also good for smaller jobs like attaching trim, molding and
paneling, especially if you don't want to use fasteners. They're not all
quick-setting, so you'll need to check the label.
Liquid Nails can be used in
multiple applications and with multiple materials. It's perfect for a wide
variety of jobs, everything from repairing vinyl flooring to shoe repair. And
one of the best parts is that it dries clear and can be cleaned up with water.
In the last few years
polyurethane glues, such as Gorilla Glue, have become popular for a lot of
uses, primarily repair jobs. The product requires the bonding surfaces to be
dampened to activate the adhesive. This process creates a foam that penetrates
and fills the bonding surfaces. But be careful: Not knowing how much foam will
be created after the initial squeeze often causes DIYers to use too much and
ultimately create a big mess.
Epoxies generally come in two
parts that need to be mixed to activate. These are best for heavy-duty and
permanent uses including large outdoor projects and connections that have a
weak joint.
Spray adhesives are good for
attaching fabrics and vinyl sheets to large surface areas. For example, they
can be used to attach felt to the bottom a wood box or checkerboard.
Hot glue is great for a lot of
craft projects, but it can also be used to temporarily hold project parts
together while the permanent glue sets up — especially in situations where
clamps are hard to use. Hot glue will not provide a good solid adhesive on all
surfaces and shouldn't be relied on for quality holding power.
Article by :
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/repairing/stick-and-seal-the-basics-of-adhesives-glue-and-caulk
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