Woodcarving and Wood Artwork

Seljuk Turks excelled in the working of stone and wood. The most important of the woodworking techniques was called kundekari where pieces of shaped wood are interlocked through rabbeting and mortising, without the use of any nails or glue. Before shaping, the wood was carefully treated so that it would not dry out and shrink later on. Individual pieces were cut and carved into octagons, diamonds, stars etc. according to the design intended. The composition was than framed and backed. Another Seljuk woodworking technique, popular in doors, shutters, reading desks and sarcophagi, was sunk relief where the motifs were carved into the plane of the surface. The reverse of the technique in which the motif stands out of the plane was used in calligraphic friezes and decorative borders. Latticing and openwork was developed to a high art, producing lace-like traceries in wood. Beveling, a technique favored in earlier Central Asian Turkish Art was used not as often.

Walnut, apple, pear, cedar, oak, ebony and rosewood were the most popular raw materials, depending on the technique to be employed. Anatolian Seljuk wood workmanship produced its most mature examples in both quantity and quality by combining the styles and techniques brought by the Turks to Anatolia with local styles of decoration in a new synthesis. A rich decorative style is observed in this period, consisting of floral and geometric designs, inscriptions and, albeit fewer in number, figural images as well. In Anatolian Seljuk wood workmanship, carving is the technique most appropriate to, and most frequently employed for, the decorative style in which thuluth inscriptions and palmette and half-palmette motifs are often used amid rumî branches and tendrils. Decorations incorporating geometric patterns also occupy an important place in Seljuk wood workmanship. The ‘kündekâri’ technique is used especially on large surfaces such as doors, shutters, pulpits and wood panelling. Pieces of wood cut in lozenge, star or octagonal shapes are joined together inside regularly hollowed out strips of wood in an interlocking pattern.

The art of woodworking, which is observed both in architecture and on decorative objects, produced some of its most beautiful examples in the Ottoman period. We see it in architecture in columns and beams; as decorative elements on doors and shutters, pulpits, mosque niches, ceiling ornaments, and balcony railings; on furniture such as lecterns, Koran stands, turban stands, trousseau chests and tables, and as accessories. The professional organization of wood workers, the foundations of which were laid by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in Edirne in the 15th century and completed by the end of the century during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II in the establishment of the Privy Architects’ Hearth in Topkapi Palace, were influential in determining the artistic style of Ottoman wood workmanship. When we consider that Mimar Sinan, who was trained by the Hearth, which was responsible for carrying out and overseeing all construction activity in the Empire, first learned carpentry here before architecture and that Mehmed Aga and Dalgiç Ahmed ÿavus also learned mother-of-pearl inlay here, the importance given to wood workmanship in Ottoman art is readily appreciated. In terms of style and technique, the loveliest and most magnificent examples of wood workmanship are seen in the 16th and 17th centuries. A rich combination emerges with the addition of ‘hatayi’ and other naturalistic floral motifs to the ongoing Seljuk tradition of intricate vegetal decorations consisting of rumi-palmettes and curving branches.

The technique of lacquering is conspicuous in Ottoman wood workmanship of the 17th and 18th centuries. This technique, numerous examples of which are encountered in Edirne especially, is for this reason also known as ‘Edirnekâri’. The application of this technique, which, besides wood, was also employed on cardboard and leather, is difficult and painstaking work. When all the irregularities have been smoothed out of the material to be used, a layer of varnish is first applied to prevent the surface from absorbing the paints. After drying, the decoration is applied in gold leaf or paint of various colors. When the paints have dried, the surface is again varnished; this procedure is repeated several times. The Rococo style, which arose as a style of architectural decoration in the palaces of France in the mid-19th century, also exhibits its influence in Ottoman wood workmanship, as in every branch of Ottoman art, as ‘Turkish Rococo’. On small-scale handicrafts, the classical Ottoman decorative motifs give way to floral bouquets, represented naturalistically in a vase, acanthus leaves, C- and S-curving branches, ribbons and bows.

Unable to withstand the ravages of time, most objects made of wood have failed to survive to our day. Nevertheless, you may still see some of the finest examples of wood workmanship from the 8th up to the end of the 19th century in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art.

Reference: Gonul Tekeli, Ali Konyali, SKYLIFE

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http://www.turkishculture.org/applied-arts/wood-artwork-153.htm

Example Product (Part III)

Chairs

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What's the Difference Between Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac and Lacquer?

These terms for a finish or top coat are often used interchangeably, but there is a big difference. Learn when and where to use the correct one.

The ravages of time and use of a piece of furniture can be limited by a durable top or finish coat. While the terms varnish, polyurethane, lacquer and shellac are commonly used to reference a final finish in general, these products are not the same, nor are they recommended to be used interchangeably.

Shellac

This finish is actually a natural product (it's made from combining a secretion from the female lac bug with a solvent such as alcohol) that is very safe once dried and hardened. In addition to adding a protective coat, it also can add a warm amber color to wood. It can be affected by heat (white rings will appear under a hot bowl or mug) or chemicals, so a kitchen table might not be the best place to use it. Fine furniture items can be greatly enhanced with shellac. Some shellac manufacturers recommend using it as a protective coat on non-wood items. Apply it with a natural bristle brush or with a cotton rag.

Shellac is available in most home centers as a liquid in a can. It also comes in solid form or in flakes that must be dissolved, and it has a shorter shelf life than other finishes. The liquid variety is the best option for the average homeowner.

Polyurethane

Essentially a plastic in the form of a liquid until it dries, polyurethane is available in both water- and oil-based options, and comes in varieties from satin to glossy.

Water-based polyurethane is popular because of its low odor and low toxicity. It goes on clear without adding a slight color that oil-based versions can, and it dries much faster. As with shellac, water-based polyurethane won't hold up well to heat and chemicals. It's good for bookcases, desks, side tables and picture frames — anything that won't be exposed to extremes.

Minwax Polycrylic is an example of a fortified water-based polyurethane than can stand up a bit better to rough conditions. It also can go over oil-based finishes and can be applied using synthetic-bristle brushes, a foam roller or a rag, as can other water-based polyurethanes. Water-based oil-modified polyurethane is a relatively new product that combines the durability of an oil base with the cleanup of a water base. This product can actually be used on wooden floors.

Oil-based polyurethane is slightly more durable than water-based, especially when it comes to handling heat, so a kitchen table is a good candidate. It adds a slight color tone and will bring out the richness of wood.

When working with oil-based polyurethane, use a respirator in a well-ventilated area. Apply using a natural-bristle brush or rag. Oil-based takes much longer to dry and cure than water-based, so plan accordingly and follow the manufacturer's directions.

Both oil- and water-based polyurethane can be applied to latex/acrylic paint; however, oil-based polyurethane will create a yellow or amber hue, especially to light colors. To add durability without affected color, use a water-based finish.

You can also purchase polyurethane in a spray can which makes it a bit easier to apply, especially on large projects. Wipe-on polyurethane is used primarily by woodworkers who want to create a “hand-rubbed” finish on special projects. These two run the extremes of ease of use, but produce excellent results.

Varnish

The name of this finish often is used generically for a finish or top coat. It's very durable because it contains a higher ratio of solids. Spar varnish is perfect for outdoor projects and for raw wood used for exterior doors and trim on rustic homes. In addition to protecting the wood, it also provides natural ultraviolet light protection. Spar varnish is often used on items that will be near or on the water, like a wood boat, decks, beach chairs, etc. Apply using a natural-bristle brush.

Lacquer

Lacquer provides the extremely intense gloss finish often used on many Asian-inspired or ultramodern furnishings. It is extremely durable and resistant to damage; however, over time it can begin to discolor and become scratched. Wonder why it's so smooth? It's applied via a sprayer, because it is more viscous (thinner) than the other finishes. You'll need a high-volume, low-presser (HVLP) sprayer and a well-ventilated and spacious workspace to apply it.

Other Finishes

Cutting boards and other wood items that come in contact with food do well with butcher-block oil and food-grade mineral oil. Wooden tool handles will hold up better with an annual rubdown with boiled linseed oil.

A Few Words About Applicators

The general rule of thumb is to use natural brushes, sometimes referred to as China brushes, for all oil-based finishes (including paint), and synthetic brushes, sometimes referred to as nylon brushes, for latex, acrylic or water-based finishes. Rollers and rags can work for either type of finish.

Because these are the top coats being applied, you'll want them to look as good and as smooth as possible. The best conditions to apply are when there is as little dust or other airborne particles as possible. Clean your work area as thoroughly as possible and allow some time for the dust (literally) to settle. Consider using a dust collection system or air purifier.

When applying a finish with a brush or roller you may notice some bubbles pop up. Don't panic. Many times these will settle out as the finish dries. If it's a problem, simply use a rag to wipe it down. You can often avoid this by applying a thinner coat. Also, shaking a can of finish will certainly add bubbles, so try stirring instead.

After the first coat dries, you'll need to either sand it with fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit) or use steel wool. You may have heard to only use steel wool, but many manufacturers recommend either one. Just be careful not to deeply scratch the finish and certainly do not sand off the finish to the point where you reach raw wood. Wipe off the dust created and apply another coat. A couple of coats are usually enough, but you can apply additional coats (more wiped-on coats can be applied than brushed or rolled) to create a thicker and more durable finish. Try not to exceed four or five coats of finish.

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http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

Stick and Seal: The Basics of Adhesives, Glue and Caulk

Home improvement and hardware stores carry such a large variety of caulks and adhesives, it can often get confusing. Learn what to use for all your projects, repairs and fillers.

It'd be great if there was one caulk or one adhesive that did it all. But for nearly every job there is a specific caulk, adhesive or glue. And while they often are thought of together, they can't always be found together. You'll find them distributed throughout a store and grouped together by application.

For example, look near the paint aisle and you'll find the caulk section. Head over to tile and flooring, roofing and masonry, and there will be a nice selection there as well. The location of glue and other adhesives also range widely, but often occupy a smaller section near the paint, with some construction adhesives found next to the caulk in a completely different aisle.

But there is a method to the madness, and it just takes a little savvy to make sense of it all.

Seal the Deal With Caulk

We all want a “tight” house with no drafts or leaks so we save money on energy bills and keep out moisture to avoid water damage and mold. We also want our water-laden areas — the kitchen and bathroom — to keep water where it belongs.

For bathrooms you'll need caulk labeled for tub and tile. These are formulated for high-moisture areas and resist mold and mildew. Within this type of caulk are several variations, included sanded ceramic-tile caulk, which is available in colors to match the color of your grout so you're not limited to bright white or clear caulk.

Caulk for use around doors, windows and molding will be clearly marked. Generally, the same caulk can be used for all of these applications. Make sure that the product you get is labeled as paintable because paint will not adhere properly to certain types of caulk — it will bead up like oil trying to mix with water. For outdoor applications, select caulk rated for exterior use. Most often these will be either silicone-based or an acrylic blend with silicone added. Image 1 shows three varieties of caulk including: tub and tile; paintable acrylic blend window, door and molding; and silicone window, door and molding.

Although it can be tempting, caulk shouldn't be used as a filler. For gaps larger than 1/4 inch, you'll need to use a spray foam or backer rod to fill larger gaps, and then follow up with caulk. Backer rod is usually found with weather stripping.

Most caulk comes in a tube that requires a caulk gun, which consists of a “trigger” that drives a plunger pushing the caulk through the tube toward the tip. Caulk guns are a must-have and range from just a few dollars to $12 or more. They all perform the same function, so there's no point in buying the most-expensive caulk gun unless you're a pro. Your best bet is a midrange gun at about $6. Some of the cheaper ones — less than $3 — can stick and have to be taken apart and reassembled frequently, which is not something you want to do in the middle of a job.

Applying Caulk

After you've applied a bead of caulk, simply use your finger followed by a damp paper towel to smooth it out. If that's a bit messy for your liking, many spreading tools are available.

Caps and Applicators

Some tubes of caulk will come with a cap. If not, a great trick for capping an open tube of caulk is screwing on a wire connector onto the tip. Connectors are threaded so they will grab onto the tip and stay in place.

Caulk manufacturers also make smaller tubes of caulk that don't require a caulk gun. They're a lot like a tube of toothpaste. Many of these come with tips that can be screwed on and removed, which makes cleaning much easier.

Getting a Grip With Adhesives and Glue

The white glue we used in school always comes to mind when we think of the sticky stuff, but other than making construction-paper art, it's not very practical in DIY situations.

Wood Glue

Not all wood glues are the same. Titebond has three main varieties and they are pretty easy to identify by their label. Plain Titebond is the typical wood glue you'd want to use for most woodworking and carpentry jobs. Titebond II can be as well, but it also offers waterproof/exterior uses. Titebond III, which some woodworkers simply use as a default glue, has good exterior capabilities and has a longer “open” time than the other Titebond glues. Open time refers to how long before a glue starts setting. This is important if you're working on project that requires a lot of setup or assembly prior to being clamped.

When using wood glue, make sure to apply a solid bead and spread it evenly using an acid brush. Apply enough so that the mating surfaces are thoroughly covered.

Heavy-Duty Adhesives

Construction adhesives, such as Loctite and Liquid Nails brands are best for large projects like laminating beams. They’re also good for smaller jobs like attaching trim, molding and paneling, especially if you don't want to use fasteners. They're not all quick-setting, so you'll need to check the label.

Liquid Nails can be used in multiple applications and with multiple materials. It's perfect for a wide variety of jobs, everything from repairing vinyl flooring to shoe repair. And one of the best parts is that it dries clear and can be cleaned up with water.

In the last few years polyurethane glues, such as Gorilla Glue, have become popular for a lot of uses, primarily repair jobs. The product requires the bonding surfaces to be dampened to activate the adhesive. This process creates a foam that penetrates and fills the bonding surfaces. But be careful: Not knowing how much foam will be created after the initial squeeze often causes DIYers to use too much and ultimately create a big mess.

Epoxies generally come in two parts that need to be mixed to activate. These are best for heavy-duty and permanent uses including large outdoor projects and connections that have a weak joint.

Spray adhesives are good for attaching fabrics and vinyl sheets to large surface areas. For example, they can be used to attach felt to the bottom a wood box or checkerboard.

Hot glue is great for a lot of craft projects, but it can also be used to temporarily hold project parts together while the permanent glue sets up — especially in situations where clamps are hard to use. Hot glue will not provide a good solid adhesive on all surfaces and shouldn't be relied on for quality holding power.

Article by :

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/repairing/stick-and-seal-the-basics-of-adhesives-glue-and-caulk

Example Product (Part II)

Interior Decoration

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Finishing Tips on Wood

Wood Finishes 101

Follow this advice on the various types of wood finishes and when each one is used

Although staining furniture is optional, applying a finish is essential to protect the wood's surface. Without a finish, wood can dry, crack and deteriorate or – if exposed to moisture – swell so that drawers and doors no longer work. A good finish prevents swelling and cracking, protects against stains and enhances the appearance of the wood.
Finishes contain chemicals that can be dangerous if used without proper safety precautions. Always wear lightweight surgical gloves to protect the skin and protective glasses to guard the eyes. Some finishes emit hazardous fumes, so work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area with a fan for circulation. Wear a charcoal respirator when working with oil-based finishes. Never work near a gas furnace, wood-burning stove or other flame.

Rags soiled with finish pose a fire hazard, so safely dispose of them by placing them in a sealable container (such as a paint can) and filling it with water.

Every piece of furniture, whether new or antique, needs a finish, but no single finish is right for all situations. Although at least 10 varieties and more than a dozen brands of finish are available, all can be divided into two categories: penetrating finishes (those that dry inside the wood) and surface finishes (those that dry on the surface of the wood).

Penetrating finishes are easier to apply and leave a more natural look. Surface finishes are more durable but don't look as natural.

Linseed oil is one of the oldest penetrating finishes, but it tends to become sticky in humid weather. Danish oils also fit into the category of penetrating finishes. Tung oil is a favorite among woodworkers because it's easy to apply and leaves an attractive, natural appearance.

Apply tung oil with a rag rather than a brush. First, remove any dust from the wood with a tack cloth. Shake the tung oil container and apply a liberal amount to a clean cloth. Rub the oil directly onto the wood, adding more to the cloth as necessary. Wait 5 to 10 minutes, or until the tung oil begins to feel sticky, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth.

Wait a few hours before applying the next coat. Some rubbing may be required to work the finish well into the wood. Once the wood takes on an even sheen -- usually after four coats or so – let it dry completely. Apply more tung oil anytime the finish becomes dull or dry-looking.

Tung oil provides a thin layer of protection that's suitable for fine antiques and other pieces that won't receive much wear. Pieces that get a lot of daily use should be protected with a surface finish.

Surface Finishes

Although they don't look as natural as penetrating finishes, surface finishes provide more durable protection. They're a better choice for everyday pieces that will receive a lot of wear.

Unlike tung oil, which dries inside the wood, surface finishes such as shellac and varnish dry on top of the wood to create a protective coating.

Surface finishes are applied with brushes rather than rags, and a variety of brushes are available – each with different attributes. Oil-based finishes may be applied with a natural brush or a synthetic one. Apply water-based finishes with a synthetic brush, as water may cause natural bristles to swell and become useless. Avoid inexpensive foam brushes, as they wear out quickly and don't lay down a smooth coat.

Select a medium-priced brush with a tapered end and good spring to the bristles. Tug gently on the bristles to ensure that they're well attached. Poorly made brushes may shed bristles into the finish.

Shellac is a quick-drying surface finish used fairly infrequently today because it isn't very resistant to water or alcohol. Varnishes offer much better protection, and the toughest of them is polyurethane.

Polyurethane varnish is oil-based, so it may be applied with a natural or a synthetic brush. Before applying it, wipe off the surface with a tack cloth. Stir the varnish in a figure-8 pattern, using a stirring stick. Never shake varnish, as that may produce bubbles that dry into the surface. Dip about ½” of the bristles into the varnish, tapping off the excess so that it falls back into the can.

To minimize runs and drips, begin brushing from the middle of the board, working toward the edges. Smooth out bubbles by “tipping off” – holding the brush at a 45-degree angle – and gently, without stopping, pulling the brush in strokes the entire length of the board.

After the first coat is completed, let it dry thoroughly. Resist the temptation to dab or add more finish.

To prevent your brush from drying between coats, you have several options: clean it, store it in a jar of mineral spirits to keep it soft until you're ready to use it again, or seal the entire brush in a zipper-top plastic bag and store it in the freezer until it's time to apply the next coat.

Creating a Professional Look

Though it's termed a surface-building finish, most of the first coat of polyurethane is absorbed into the wood. Several woodworkers' techniques will allow you to create a smooth, protective sheen when the second coat is applied.

Because the first coat of polyurethane filled most of the pores in the wood's surface, the second coat won't have as much to cling to. To help the second coat stick to the first, use #220 sandpaper to make tiny scratches in the hardened first coat. This technique is called scuff sanding.

With a tack cloth, wipe off any dust created by sanding. Then apply the second coat of varnish in the same manner as the first.

As the finish dries, any dust that settles on it may cause roughness. To remove the roughness from a final finish, try the technique known as wet sanding, which eliminates dried-on dust without leaving visible sandpaper scratches. Fold a piece of #400 or finer sandpaper into a small square. Apply a small amount of lemon oil, mineral oil or baby oil to the dried surface as a lubricant. Sand the oily surface, applying light pressure with only your fingertips, in the direction of the wood's grain. Once the finish is smooth, wipe off the oil with a clean cloth.

Preserving Antique Finishes

True antiques are more valuable with their original finish than if they've been refinished – even professionally refinished. Try the following simple methods to help preserve an original finish and repair it if it becomes hazy, cracked or stained.

The first step in protecting an old finish is to clean it with a mild furniture cleaner and a soft cloth. Avoid harsh solvents or steel wool.

After the cleaner has evaporated, apply a thin coat of high-quality furniture paste wax. Wait about 10 minutes, or until the wax begins to harden, and buff vigorously with a clean, soft cloth.

Paste wax creates a hard, thin shell of protection over an original finish and is universally accepted as a preservative by antiques collectors and museum curators.

Apply paste wax no more than once a year to avoid excessive buildup.

For antique hardware and fixtures that have turned dark, use the same process as described above. Apply furniture cleaner with a soft cloth, then buff on a thin coat of paste wax.

Original leather upholstery must also be preserved and protected. Unlike wood, leather isn't harmed by a little water, so it's safe to wipe off dust and dirt with a damp cloth, taking care not to snag any cracks or imperfections in the leather. Aging leather becomes brittle, so use a spray leather conditioner to help keep it soft. If the piece is likely to see heavy wear, use paste wax as a protectant for the leather.

When you're dusting, wipe antiques with a cloth moistened with lemon wax or an aerosol polish. Apply the polish or oil to the rag, not the wood; spraying an aerosol directly on an antique can damage the finish. Change to a clean rag frequently because the dust on a rag can scratch the surface. Lemon oil doesn't actually benefit the wood -- it merely helps the cloth pick up dust – so wipe off any oil left behind.

Article by:

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/carpentry-and-woodworking/woodworking-faq-clear-finishes

Example Product (Part 1)

Mix

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